#61. A Guide to CDMX
eat, drink, shop and do in Mexico City.
Mexico City is a place that I can envision myself living in a different life. Immediately I was like, “oh, this place is COOL”. I visited for 10 days in December, over Christmas, and again for a week in March. It’s a place that I’m already eager to return to, not once, but many more times. Ask anyone who’s visited CDMX what they thought of it, and I guarantee you’ll hear nothing but rave reviews.
It’s interesting how we innately just know when we “like” a city. For me, CDMX made me feel like culture mattered. Like my clothes mattered, or my taste in music or books mattered. I don’t often feel this way in Victoria, and most of the time I find it nice not to have so much value placed on these things. But there is something wildly inspiring and exhilarating about being in a city that makes you want to push the boundaries of your personality and how you portray yourself in the world. It’s a place that makes you want to step outside your comfort zone and risk it for the biscuit. It’s a place that makes you want to buy a pair of leopard print pants, go out to a dimly lit restaurant, have one too many drinks, and spill all your secrets.
Three things stood out to me about Mexico City: the abundance of restaurants, the abundance of dogs and the abundance of museums/galleries. Architecture too, is a big deal in this city, so let’s make that four.
The food in CDMX is truly unparalleled and the options feel endless. I barely scratched the surface of all the amazing places and things to eat, and I already have a growing restaurant list for my next visit. The dog scene is wild. I was told that just under 50% of households have a dog and I completely believe it. You’re not going to run out of things to do in CDMX, free and moderate priced museums/galleries are everywhere in Mexico City. Is there anything better than strolling through a museum with absolutely nothing else on your to-do list? To me, it’s true luxury.
It’s a great walking city too. Be prepared for 25,000+ step days. There seemed to be a park or public square every few blocks in many areas. Chapultepec Park is by far the largest park, double the size of Central Park, and often referred to as the “lungs” of the city. For when your feet need a break, CDMX has a really great public bike system too. We used the bikes most days.
There are so many restaurants, so many stores, so many malls, so many food stands, so many markets, so many museums, so much art, so many parks, so many residences, so many neighborhoods, so much wealth, so much poverty, so many churches, so many historic sites, so much traffic, so many people, so many scammers, so many heavily armed federal police, so much kindness, so many beautiful women, so many European tourists, so many street performers, so many homeless, so much toxic water, so much dirt, so many… so many… so much…
- a review of CDMX I found of the internet, by Anonymous, that I completely agree with.
I loved CDMX and I hope that if you’re reading this, you get to visit it some day, or perhaps you are planning a trip soon and doing your research. If that’s the case, know that I am absolutely jealous but hope you have the best time ever.
PS - This post is likely far too long for your email, so be sure to read it in it’s entirety on Substack.
To Eat:
Cafés and Bakeries
Bou - If you’re looking for an epic slice of cheesecake, “torta de queso”, no one does it like Bou. Honest to God best cheesecake I’ve ever had. Exeptionally creamy. I also tried their croissant, which was perfection, both their chocolate chip and matcha cookies, which were perfection, and their kouign amon, which was, hate to say it, nothing special.
Panderia Rosetta - you can’t really visit CDMX without stopping into this bakery, and likely ordering the Rol de Guayabana (guava roll). Expect a big line if you’re planning on going anytime after 8 am. In order of preference, I liked the: tarragon roll, guava roll, Mil hojas de frutos rojos (a mille feuille cake), almond roll, lemon ricotta roll, and (surprisingly) lastly, the cardamom roll.
Saint - great bakery in Condesa! I got the almond croissant and it was excellent. The breads all looked really nice too.
Pasteleria Ideal - traditional Mexican baked goods. An experience in and of itself; grab a tray and pick your own baked goods.
Restaurants
in Roma Norte
Mi Compa Chava Marquera - another very popular spot, that you will likely have to wait in line for. We loved the Tostada de Ceviche verde de Sierra, the ‘El Moky’ (thinly sliced tuna ceviche on a tostada), and the Costa de Cameron (shrimp taco) best, but truthfully everything that was comin’ out that kitchen looked insane. Finish with the Coconut or Strawberry sundae! We took my parents here for Christmas Eve dinner, despite the very casual vibe, because we loved it so much.
Jenni’s Quesadillas - the best street quesadillas. A MUST. I really liked the zucchini flowers, “Flor de Calabaza”, but I don’t think you can go wrong with any of them.
Eno - I had some unreal chilaquiles for breakfast here. Modern and trendy spot, with 2 locations (one in Roma Norte and one in Polanco, in the Jumex building).
Fugaz - cute and casual spot in Roma Norte. Creatives small dishes. Fresh ingredients. I got a couple shrimp tostadas and they truly blew me away.
Pizza Madonna - really delicious, fresh ‘za, for when you need to switch it up a bit from tacos! I’ve also heard great things about Dr. Pizza and Felix.
Rosetta - fine dining but not stuffy kind! Increddddible food from chef Elena Reygadas. Italina/Mediteranean inspired. This is a top recommendation on my list for sure. Make a reso ahead of time.
Cafe Trucha - this was a cute little lunch spot with nice baguette Sammies.
Marlindo - a GREAT spot for fish tacos. I loved the octopus tacos best. Fast and friendly service, on a street corner with some good people watching opportunities.
in La Condesa
Contramar is a CDMX institution! This restaurant was opened in 1998 by Gabriella Camara and specializes in seafood. Everything was chef’s kiss, including their house salsas. I’ve been making the salsa verde curdo ever since visiting.
Hugo - a trendy place to get an expensive cocktail. Very chic. Very Parisian.
Tacos Don Juan - cheap, generous, and fucking delicious tacos, simple as that.
Nevería Roxy - old school ice cream shop that’s been around since the late 1940’s. Super charming, and totally retro.
in other neighbourhoods
Santo Pazole - wow, this pozole soup was SO GOOD. This place is your typical hole in the wall spot, and would have been easily missed by us had I not read about it on Wu Haus’s guide. Get the verde con pollo; it’s incredibly filling, nourishing and cheap too.
Fonda Margarita - if you’re planning on visiting Casa Azul: the Frida Kahlo museum, you must get breakfast here before hand. Hands down the best breakfast I’ve had in Mexico. There was a line up when we got there around 9 am, and when we got in, we were sat at a communal table with other families. We ordered the chorizo and the pork dish (cerdo verde), as well as the huevos con frijoles negro. The closest you’re going to get to eating breakfast at a Mexican household.
El Turix - consider this the perfect place for a quick lunch in Polanco. They serve cochinita pibil tacos; a slow-roasted pork dish from the Yucatán Peninsula.
To shop:
Proyecto Ruffina - this was my favourite store I visited in CDMX, both because they had really lovely things and because it was all so reasonably priced! They sell home goods and clothing, all made from local Mexican artisans.
Perla Valtierra - the most stunning ceramist I’ve come across. The showroom is so gorgeous, I must have taken 50 photos in there. I brought a couple candlesticks and a small vase home. Had it not been for my limited space, I certainly would have pushed the limits on how much I could bring back.
Cardon - small but mighty, with a great collection of Mexican and Latin American designers. Stand out brands were Coeur MX and Hermanos Koumori (if you’re a runner, you’ll love this brand).
Lust - huge selection of very cool sneakers, jerseys, workout clothes and streetwear.
Casa OK - the cutest shop!! this store was located in the building our first airbnb was in. Lots of gorgeous home goods, gifts and knick knacks.
Casa Bosques + Cafebreria - cool book stores to browse.
Zii Ropa - boutique clothing store owned by a Vancouver native. Lot’s of monochrome linens and natural fibre pieces.
Ikal - large curated collection of independent Mexican designer clothing brands, jewelry, perfumes and more. Some seriously cool things in here.
Originarioo - this was unlike any store I’ve been too! Super fun to walk through, don’t miss it.
Carla Fernandez - Mexican designer. I really liked her jewelry and found it reasonably priced.
Simple by Trista - as the name suggests, simple clothing. It wasn’t my favourite store but definitely worth a pop in, especially since it’s on such a lovely street!
Dafreciha - I loved this store! I almost bought so many things, but they didn’t fit quiiiiite right. Maybe you’ll have better luck!
To Do:
Jumex - a 3-story contemporary art gallery in Polanco. Rotating exhibitions. Free admission. I loved it!
The Museo Soumaya - right across from the Jumex, this was my favourite museum that we visited in Mexico City. I especially loved the Impressionist section that housed big names like van Gogh, da Vinci, Dalí, Matisse, Monet and Picasso. Another free admission museum thanks to Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim, who gifted this incredible building to the city.
Museo Nacional de Antropologia - one of the most popular museums in the city.
Museo de Arte Moderno - modern Mexican art located in Chapultepec Park in Mexico City. Lovely!
Palacio de Bellas Artes - a historic building in the city center. On Sundays, admission is free to browse the gallery. If you go around Christmas time, get tickets for a ballet!
Palacio Postal - stunning and operational post office. The building is really extraordinary and all interiors are breathtaking.
Casa Pedregral - a Barrragan house tour. Must book ahead. It’s pretty $$ but it’s a gorgeous and seriously cool home!
Mercado el 100 - a cute organic farmers market in Roma Norte. Weekly on Sundays.
Mercada Jamaica - the most insane flower market! A fun place to walk around and take photos.
